NS Model Pics (Dial up beware!)

Started by Crazytrain, November 26, 2005, 02:50:18 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Crazytrain

Thought I would post a few pics of my stuff. All are works in progress (including renumbering of units that need it!).















The loadout is needing some serious work. Problem is getting some detailed shots of the various angles. Someday......

ccaranna

Nice models!  Thanks for sharing, I love to see this kind of stuff.

Question-

In this shot:



Are the dash 9 "catfish" models brass, or were they custom built?  I am wondering because I am currently working (slowly) on a pair myself, and want to make them as authentic as possible.  I started with Athearn C44-9W shells with high numberboards, but had to fill in the headlight on the nose and move it up above the cab.  

Just curious, and thanks for sharing!

Crazytrain

Thanks for the compliments, Ccaranna.

As for the Dash 9s', they are Athearns with some custom work. I did the Dash 2 and the Dash 9s before I had any good reference material(pre Railpics.net  :lol: ). The head lights on the catfish have been blanked over and new ones cut in between the number boards. Grills and some other stuff is incorrect, but the look is close. There is a difference concerning the grill work on the lower hood under radiator section between the NS and BNSF models Athearn produced. Also, the rear sand filler hatch on mine is on the top of the long hood end when it should be recessed in the LH end. I could go on, but then I would end up putting them back on the work bench. :wink:  

The Dash 2 was the very first HH project. That one was the most time consuming. The HH EMDs have to be my favorite locomotive of all time!

Again, thank you.

ccaranna

You're welcome!  I was just thinking-  I know what you mean by going for the look and "feel" as far as models go.  I find that I wind up taking the fun out of it if I try to get the model EXACTLY like the prototype.  It gets to a point where "close enough" works for me.  The only thing that really bugged me about the Athearn model was the headlight.  Everything else for all intents and purposes is OK.  

BTW, the high-hood is great, too!

Crazytrain

That's what I do, too. I get in the habit of spending more time researching a project than actually working on the model itself. That sure takes the fun out of model railroading to me. "Get the major stuff out of the way, then run em'!" is my motto! I can always go back later if it suits me.

jcmark4501

Nice job... I need to get me some schooling on how to do that there stuff.  :lol:

Knothead

Nice weathering job on those. I hate that shiny new out of the box look. Trains are supposed to be dirty. What products did you use?

Crazytrain

Thank you for the compliment, Knothead. For the most part the locomotives have the factory paint with added weathering using Floquil or Polly scale paints.

After observing photos, I will usually decide how much weathering a locomotive will recieve. For instance, when I started on the NS#2537, it had quite a bit of use, but still had not started losing the paint to the primer on the roof and hood areas. So, all horizantal surfaces recieved a coat of the appropriate mix of reefer gray and engine black. This is pretty much applied to all of the locomotives and simulates the very visible accumulation of dust. Higher up on the locomotive, a darker mixture is used, because when the locomotive is washed(by the rain of course), it collects lower on the unit. Then a wash is applied using reefer grey thinned with water on the hood sides. If done right (the 2537 needs redone!) this brings out items such as hood doors, latches, and grills. Streaking is welcome as long as it doesn't get out of hand. I will also try not to remove too much of the shine on the hood sides as photos have shown me that some locos, even though well weathered, still have a sheen to them when viewed down the side. To finish the weathering off, every coupler gets a coating of rust.

Lately, I've noticed that alot of the locomotives are either showing rust or brown dust in areas. This can be done with a rail brown wash. Up the front of the pilot face in two rail width marks looks very realistic! Some time in the future I would like to start experimenting with an air brush. Some things would look alot better if applied in an even fashion, and I believe only an airbrush would achieve this effect. Some weathering has been ommitted for this reason.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk